Day 5 – Sunday, September 7: Hippos, Qatzrin, Syrian Border, Caesarea Philippi, Dan, Misgav Am
Today we traveled north to the Golan Heights. It was a cooler day, with full sun and highs in the 80s. Everywhere we went we had every site to ourselves (once again). We left the hotel at 7:30, reading Matthew 13 as we began our drive north.
Hippos/Sussita
We first traveled north to the northern end of the lake. This is the location of Bethsaida, the home of Peter, Andrew, and Philip (John 1). We then turned south as we drove on the east side of the lake. We made a brief stop at the only “cliff” area on this side. No doubt this is where Mark 5 took place. We continued to Hippos/Sussita. Here at Hippos (a Decapolis city), we saw many Roman ruins. During the Byzantine Period (4th-6th centuries AD), there were no less than a half a dozen churches were built here. With a great view of the lake, we read the transformational story of the demoniac from Mark 5 (which most likely happened down near the lakeshore). The view across the lake was really good.
Katzrin
Next, we drove back north to Katzrin, the largest city in the Golan Heights. We visited the Talmudic Village that is here (from about the 3rd-8th centuries AD). We saw good examples of olive presses, the synagogue, and other house structures. We then gathered in a completely-restored stone house where we read from Mark 2. We could see the story unfolding before our eyes!
Syrian Border/Qunetra
Next, we drove to the base of a IDF military establishment located on the border with Syria. Here, Shlomo shared with us some of the modern history between Israel and Syria (ie. 1967 and 1973 wars). We looked across to see Qunetra, once a Syrian town.
Caesarea Philippi/Banias
Descending down of the Golan Heights, we stopped at the archaeological site of Caesarea Philippi. This was a very pagan city in the days of Jesus and through the Roman Period. The city enjoyed the waters of the Banias Spring, one of the three tributaries of the Jordan. We read from Matthew 16 where Jesus asked His disciples the “final exam” question, “Who do you say I am?” Among the ruins at the Grotto once stood the Temples of Augustus, Zeus/Jupiter, Nemesis, the Shrine of the Dancing Goats, and the niches dedicated to Pan, the promiscuous shepherding god of the Greeks and Romans. Six days later, Jesus was transfigured (perhaps somewhere on the lower slopes of Mt. Hermon, Matthew 17).
“We spent the whole day in the Golan Heights. We had a great day, with cooler temperatures. The sites were amazing and the visibility was good. We even looked across the border into Syria and Lebanon.”
Dan Nature Preserve & Archaeological Site
Nearby a short distance to the west is the Nature Preserve and and archaeological site of Tel Dan. The Dan Spring served this ancient city originally called Laish. We walked along the river to a quite place where we recalled Psalm 42 (“as the deer pants for water…”) before we walked to the archaeological ruins of the high place. We read from Judges 18 and 1 Kings 12 about the patterns of disobedience displayed here. Leaving the site of Dan we saw the a mud-brick Middle Bronze gate (probably not seen or used by Abram) and the Iron Age/Israelite gate and where the famous Dan Inscription was found in July, 1993.
Misgav Am/Lebanon Border
Our last stop of the day was to Misgav Am, a community overlooking the Lebanon border. The view into Lebanon was outstanding. Again, Shlomo shared some modern history about Lebanon and the challenge that Hezbollah has posed over the years. To see the total destruction by the IDF of Lebanese towns where Hezbollah were entrenched (and from where they shot 1000s of rockets into Israel) was incredible to see!
We returned back to our hotel for another incredible dinner. We also enjoyed seeing the lunar eclipse that happened between 8:30 – 9:30 pm (9:11 being full eclipse). The “red moon” was amazing to see over the Sea of Galilee! Credit for red moon picture – Jonathan Cooley.
Day 6 – Monday, September 8: Jordan Northern Border Crossing, Jerash, Mt. Nebo, Machaerus, Medeba
